Cathedrals of California, A Virtual Pilgrimage

California Cathedral Facts

Wednesday, January 2nd, 2008

Oldest cathedral church: The Cathedral of San Carlos Borromeo, Monterey, was founded as a mission church by Fr. Serra in 1770, and the present structure was completed in 1794. It became the pro-cathedral of the Diocese of Both Californias (then encompassing all of present-day California and Baja California) in 1840. It is the oldest cathedral church building in the United States, being completed three years before St. Augustine Cathedral in St. Augustine, Fla.

Newest cathedral: The Cathedral of Christ the Light, Oakland, will be dedicated in September 2008.

Largest cathedral: The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, Los Angeles, is the 10th largest cathedral in the world and the largest Roman Catholic cathedral in the United States. It covers 65,000 square feet and is 333 feet in length (one foot longer than St. Patrick’s Cathedral in New York).

Smallest cathedral: The Cathedral of San Carlos Borromeo, Monterey, is the smallest Roman Catholic cathedral in the continental United States.

First church built as a cathedral: The Cathedral of St. Mary of the Immaculate Conception, San Francisco, (Old St. Mary’s) was built in 1854.

First Orthodox cathedral: Holy Trinity Cathedral (Orthodox Church in America), San Francisco, was founded as California’s first permanent Orthodox parish in 1864 and became the cathedral in 1870.

First Orthodox church built as a cathedral: The present Holy Trinity Cathedral (Orthodox Church in America), San Francisco, was constructed in 1909.

Oldest Episcopal cathedral church: Trinity Cathedral, San Jose, was constructed as a parish church in 1863.

First Episcopal church built as a cathedral: The second Grace Church in San Francisco, built in 1862, was unofficially known as “Grace Cathedral.” The new Grace Cathedral was established in 1910 as a successor to this church.

City with the most cathedrals: Los Angeles is home to nine cathedrals.

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Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels VII: The Great Doors

Tuesday, September 25th, 2007

Underneath is a photo of the “Our Lady of the Angels” statue placed above the main entrance on the cathedral.  The modern figure is presented as a woman “clothed with the sun, with the moon under her feet” (Revelation 12:1). The halo shaft above her head shines God’s light on her as the sun travels from east to west.Mary above the cathedral doors

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Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels VI: Exterior

Saturday, September 22nd, 2007

For the last two days, Los Angeles has experienced a storm that brought an unusual clearance in the air, along with spectacular clouds and light effects.  And so, I decided to capture the outside of the cathedral under this rare vault. 

In the first image, the post storm golden sunset light hits the building in such way that its colors become very vivid.  You can see the clouds reflecting on the main window, which is split in four sections by a cross.In the second photograph the sunlight is much weaker, giving a less contrasty effect on the building and a much less intense color.  You can now admire the entire facade from a higher point of view.The third photograph is taken from a different angle near the 101 Freeway which gives a little of the cathedral’s surroundings and shows the beautiful light after the storm.

Exterior of Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels

Exterior of Cathedral of Our lady of the Angels II

Exterior of Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels from the Hollywood Freeway

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Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels V: The Chair

Thursday, September 20th, 2007

As Eric already accurately explained, what makes a church a “real” Cathedral is the presence in it of the bishop’s chair - or cathedra.  We thought that a good picture of the one placed in the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels would be fundamental in illustrating this distinction.  The large wooden seat is visible in all its details in the photo below.  

Archbishop's chair at Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels

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Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels IV: Baptism

Thursday, September 20th, 2007

I pulled this photo out of a previous post by Francesco to offer some reflections on it. I think it is probably one of the finest Francesco has shot so far. This photo represents the power and promise of baptism, by which all the baptized are called to change the world.

Immersion Baptism at Our Lady of the Angels

This photo is a magnificent depiction of the celebration of baptism. Following the Second Vatican Council, baptism by immersion is now the preferred form of baptism in the Roman Catholic Church, as it has been in the Eastern Churches for centuries. This is something not many people realize, as most parishes continue to do baptism by pouring water on the head, except for adults at the Easter Vigil, where immersion is more common.

“Are you not aware,” St. Paul asks us, “that you who were baptized in Christ Jesus were baptized into his death?” Baptism by immersion is a fuller sign of this fact: as we are immersed in the water, we die to the world, and as we come up out of the water we rise with Christ. Every baptism is a sign of the Resurrection.

Look at how the parents and godparents are down in the water with the child, and the lovely radiating effect of their arms around the child, like rays of the sun. See how the water glistens with light: “Put on the armour of Christ, and be children of the light!”

As we witness the true wonder of immersion baptisms, we will gradually realize the power of this ancient rite, and turn away from the minimalism of pouring a few drops on the head. Glory in the wonder of baptism, and immerse yourself in its dignity and duty.

“You are ‘a chosen race, a royal priesthood, a holy nation, a people of his own, so that you may announce the praises’ of him who called you out of darkness into his wonderful light.” (1 Peter 2:9) The Cathedral of St. James in Seattle has this inscription around its immersion font, and there is probably no more wonderful description of the dignity of baptism. This photo really captures that spirit.

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Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels III

Thursday, September 20th, 2007

Below you can find two more images from the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels.

The first one is an overview of the altar (and the central nave) seen from the last row of pews. The majestic organ is visible to the right, while the chair (Cathedra) of the bishop is placed on the opposite side. In the center of the altar - at the end of the walkway - the visually stunning crucifix reigns the space.

The second photo immortalizes a detail of a stained glass placed in the mausoleum below the church. This glass is one of many others which originally belonged to the Cathedral of Saint Vibiana and that are now showcased along the passage ways of the same mausoleum. This particular detail narrates the Agony of Our Lord in the Garden of Gethsemane, when the angel appeared with the chalice. Impressive is the intelligent use of artificial light placed behind the glasses. All the vivid colors generate a strong contrast with the pale walls of the ”underground labirinth”.  One incredible aspect of such travel inside the mausoleum is to be able to contemplate these art pieces absent sounds, while being in the center of chaotic Los Angeles. An experience reminding us of the catacombs in ancient Rome.

Interior of Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels

Window of Agony in the Garden

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Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels II

Monday, September 17th, 2007

When first approaching the Our Lady of the Angels Cathedral in the heart of the recently renewed district of Downtown Los Angeles, it is stunning to see the imposing force of the structure.

The massive volume of it reminds us of the power of the Church in the community. Spanish architect, Professor José Rafael Moneo has designed a dynamic, contemporary Cathedral of which geometry contributes to the structure’s feeling of mystery and majesty. Although the inside displays this contemporary style, I noticed a relationship with some ancient structures which display an extensive knowledge of geometry. The absence of stained glasses (and consequently the presence of natural light) helps the human eye observe the rigid lines that create a puzzle of spaces, chapels, stairs and angles. Nothing seems to be curving, bending or rotating. 

Included below is a photograph of a baptism that took place in the Cathedral. Msgr. Kevin Kostelnik is clearly visible while lifting the child along with some family members. It was very impressive to be able to see a full immersion baptism, which is still unusual in the Catholic Church. The baptismal font is an octagon with a cross shape inside.

Immersion baptism at Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels

Msgr. Kostelnik and child’s family members performing the baptism

Below is a photograph of Saint Vibiana’s tomb located in the homonymous chapel underneath the cathedral. The saint is known to be a Roman female martyr who according to legend was the daughter of a former prefect, Flavianus. She died after being tortured.

Tob of St. Vibiana

Tomb of Saint Vibiana

As you can see, the space where the sarcophagus is placed is bathed in light from above, which produces a very spiritual environment where the “underground” meets the “heavens”.

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Above is the view of the window and lamps within the Blessed Sacrament Chapel.  The lamps are from the Cathedral of St. Vibiana.

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Above is a dramatically angled photograph taken from the foot of the altar cross. 

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Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels I: History

Friday, September 14th, 2007

On July 8, Francesco and I began our journey (with the able assistance of Jim Stewart) at the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels in downtown Los Angeles. We were fortunate that baptisms were taking place that day, and Msgr. Kevin Kostelnik, the cathedral pastor, graciously invited us to photograph that event as well. All the cathedral baptisms are done by full immersion, and Francesco got some amazing shots of that experience. We are also indebted to the cathedral deacon, Manny Martinez, fsp, who helped arrange our visit.

The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels was dedicated by Cardinal Roger Mahony in 2002. It replaced the former Cathedral of St. Vibiana (designed by Ezra Kysor), which was bult by Bishop Thaddeus Amat and dedicated by Archbishop Joseph Sadoc Alemany of San Francisco in 1876. The new cathedral was the culmination of nearly 100 years of attempts to construct a suitable cathedral for Los Angeles.

St. Vibiana Cathedral in an 1880 photograph

St. Vibiana Cathedral in an 1880 photograph

In 1876, the population of Los Angeles was only 9,000, and the cathedral could accommodate 1,000 people. By 1904, it was already apparent that a new cathedral was needed to meet the needs of the increasing population of the Diocese of Monterey-Los Angeles. In that year, Bishop Thomas Conaty petitioned the Holy See for permission to construct a new cathedral and demolish St. Vibiana. Permission was given, and a site was purchased on Ninth Street for the new cathedral, to be named in honor of Our Lady of Guadalupe. The Boston architectural firm of Maginnis, Walsh and Sullivan drew up plans for a Spanish Colonial cathedral. The economic depression of 1907, however, put a stop to the project. The Church of the Immaculate Conception was eventually built on this site. Bishop Conaty continued to seek ways to build a new cathedral, with one plan to locate it at the corner of Wilshire and Vermont.

Sketch of Bishop Conaty’s Cathedral

Architect’s sketch of Bishop Conaty’s proposed cathedral for Ninth Street

In 1945, Archbishop John J. Cantwell announced that architects were at work designing a new cathedral for Wilshire Boulevard, to be named Our Lady of the Angels. The architect was to be Philip Hubert Frohman, principal architect of the Washington National Cathedral. This plan was eventually abandoned, and the site was sold to Farmers Insurance, whose national headquarters remains there at Wilshire and Rimpau in the Park Mile District.

Sketch of Archbishop Cantwell’s Cathedral

Architect’s sketch of Archbishop Cantwell’s proposed cathedral for Wilshire Boulevard

When James Francis McIntyre became Archbishop of Los Angeles in 1948, he decided that building parishes and schools for the booming archdiocese was a more pressing need than the new cathedral. He wrote to all who had contributed to Cantwell’s cathedral fund, requesting permission to redirect their gifts to the vast building program that was necessary. McIntyre then presided over a phenomenal period of growth and building.

St. Vibiana Cathedral continued to serve Los Angeles during this time, undergoing several major renovations until the 1994 Northridge earthquake ended its nearly 120 years of service by rendering it unusable. Rather than undertaking expensive repairs and additional renovations to a cathedral that had already been inadequate to the needs of Los Angeles for several decades, Cardinal Roger Mahony decided to construct a new cathedral, and retained the prominent Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo to design it. Moneo was awarded the Pritzker Prize shortly after being commissioned to design the cathedral. The former cathedral was desanctified and later adapted for use as a performing arts and events venue.

With the construction of the new cathedral, Angelenos have a Mother Church consistent with the name of the city, which was founded in 1781 as El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles (The City of Our Lady of the Angels), a name later shortened to Los Angeles.

Multiple tips of the biretta to the book Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels by Msgr. Francis Weber, archdiocesan archivist.

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